27 Jan 1802
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"Wednesday, January 27th. From noon till
8 P.M.(1) variable winds, hot sultry weather, dull fiery sky and so thick
that we could not see above a mile ahead; kept making for Cape Albany
(Otway). At 8 short sail and hove to........ at 4 A.M. the wind settled
into a westerly gale attended with heavy squalls and rain.
By 9 A.M. it turned into a clear gale and a very high sea up which makes
us labour a good deal. Had altitude longitude by then 143º 13' 40",
these agree with the dead reckoning within 3 or 4 miles. Latitude 39º 12'
33" . This weather has again rendered abortive my plan of getting
the direct line of bearing and distance between Cape Farewell and Cape
Albany (Otway). I shall only observe that I never experienced such length
of bad weather at any time of year or in any country since I sailed the
seas. At noon wore to the S.W. and did so to N. at 8pm . At the same
hour next morning (29th) tacked to the S.W. … A.M. Had altitude for time-keeper,
one set giving longitude 144º 28‘ 45" (2nd set 144º 25‘ 00")
these differ from Dead reckoning twenty miles; therefore an easterly
current must run if chronometer speaks truth. At noon gales increasing
with surprising heavy squalls, hail and rain." |
30 Jan 1802
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"Saturday, January 30th.
At 4 P.M. tacked to the N.W. in order to keep hold of the land till more
favourable weather came. At 8 P.M. again tacked; hazy cloudy weather.
At 12 P.M. again tacked, and stood in for the land all night. At
half-past 5 am the Land bearing N.N.W. to N.E. distant about six
or seven leagues. Tacked to the S.W. At 8 am . The body of this Land
bore N.W., distant about eight or nine leagues. At half past 9 A.M.
had altitudes for chronometer, 1st set giving Longitude 144º 12'
15" [and 2nd set 144º 18' 30"]. At this time the Northern
point of Land bore North, distance twelve miles, and is North Eastern
extreams(sic) N.E. by N. fourteen miles. Made sail in for it with
Top-gallant sails, Royals and all our small sails. At 10 A.M. perceived
with surprise that it was Cape Shanks and Grant's Point instead of
Cape Albany . I now judged it prudent to send our boat down to overhaul
for a channel into the harbour mentioned in the Log of the 5th of
this month, accordingly stood in for it and by noon Cape Shanks bore
N.W. distant 6 or 7 miles and Grant's Point N.E. by E 10 or 11 miles.
We had a very heavy swell and perceived the surf about Seal Islands
breaking in a fearful manner; sounded every hour. The very bad weather
has again prevented me at this time from overhauling this Cape or
tracing the adjoining coast." |
31 Jan 1802
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"Sunday, January 31st.
At 2 P.M. passed Seal Island . Observed the long range of breakers on
the western side of the Port: several of them had shifted their berths
nearer to mid channel....
The whole of them for several miles broke incessantly and remarkable
lofty - we passed within 2 miles of them. The reefs on the eastern side
also broke much further out. In short the mid channel up this port has
(by the immense run of bad weather) been made narrower. By 5 P.M. got
to anchor in Elizabeth 's Cove..... out boats. Got the launch ready for
sailing in the morning to explore the channel of the western harbour
before mentioned. I went on shore in the gig. Found the well as we left
it full of fine clear water and our board of directions hanging at the
entrance of the pathway. At 4 A.M. I sent the launch with Mr Bowen and
5 men armed with 14 days' provisions and water down to the westward giving
him particular instructions how to act both with respect to the harbour
and natives should he fall in with any, the substance of which was that
in finding a channel into the Port he would take marks proper for coming
in with the vessel and immediately return to me and at all times to deal
friendly with the natives. It may now be proper to observe that my intentions
are that if a passage into that harbour is found I will take the vessel
down into it and survey it as speedily as circumstances will allow, from
that trace the coast to Cape Albany, from Cape Albany run strait to Cape
Farewell and Harbinger Rocks, and if time, after that follow up the remainder
of my orders." |
1 Feb 1802
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"Monday, February 1st.
... A.M. I walked along the beach for 8 miles up to Lady Nelson 's Point
and observed that a great variety of birds were in the brush and
their notes very different; flights of white cockatoos of perhaps
100 were often seen. At Lady Nelson 's Point we saw 20 or 30 swans
in the salt-water lagoon. One and all of the birds we have seen were
so shy that we did not shoot one (a single pigeon excepted). The
trees also were all in bloom. I am apt to think that summer does
not begin in this part till January. On penetrating further into
this island the soil was found to be good."
"Tuesday, February 2nd.
P.M. I sent a hand on shore to the well in order to see if any birds
were to be got by his sitting there a few hours steady as numbers towards
sundown came in to drink. The plan had the desired effect, 4 pigeons
were shot, a dozen of parrots; these latter were common, I dined on them,
the pigeons were preserved. On opening them all were found to feed on
seeds of various kinds."
"Wednesday, February 3rd.
P.M. As I was walking along the pathway to the well I nearly trod on
a snake about 6 feet long, the first we have seen on the island. It made
its way into the brush." |
4 Feb 1802
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"Thursday, February 4th.
Throughout these 24 hours we have had calms with hot sickly weather and
thick fiery haze.
At half-past 9 P.M. the launch returned on board, all well. Mr Bowen
reported that a good channel was found into this new harbour, water from
10 fathoms to 6 and about a mile and a half broad, and according to his
accounts it is "a most noble sheet of water" larger even than
Western Port, with many fine coves and entrances in it and the appearance
and probability of rivers, a number of shells were found on its beaches
- swans, pelicans and birds of various sorts were seen in great numbers.
The boat's crew lived on swans all the time they were away. No water
was as yet found - the officer having no time to spare, nor no natives
seen but numbers of their huts, in short from such a report as I have
received and of the truth of which I have no doubt (as the attention
and care of this officer has always been conspicuous) it would be unpardonable
in me not to give this new harbour a strict overhaul, in the meantime
as it was calm and no appearance of getting out, at 8 A.M. hove up and
towed the vessel up to Lady Nelson 's Point in order to send the boat
up the river for birds such plenty of various kinds being on this island.
At noon dropped our anchor in 6 fathoms, Lady Nelson 's Point bearing
W. by S. half a mile and Crown Head 9 miles N.E. by E. and Margaret Island
N.E. by N. 7 or 8 miles - moored with kedge." |
5 Feb 1802
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"Friday, February 5th.
Variable flaws of wind all round the compass this last 24 hours and hot
sultry weather. Employed overhauling our bread which we found in
good order. A.M. Sent the launch with the First Mate and 4 hands
armed up the river to try and shoot some birds, it ought to be observed
that the past two or three days we were here numbers of native fires
were seen on the coast and up both arms, since then they have disappeared."
"Monday, February 8th.
At 3 P.M. the launch returned, all well, having got a live swan, some
dead ones and 4 crowned parrots, a single duck was shot. No fresh water
was to be got even at dead low water and up as far as the boat could
be pushed between the boughs of the fallen trees. At A.M. took up our
kedge, weighed our anchor, made sail for Elizabeth's Cove and at half-past
6 A.M. came to anchor... sent empty cask on shore to complete our water
- also a party to cut wood, we filled our casks from this excellent spring.
Longitude by chron. 145º 13' 53"." |
9 Feb 1802
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"Tuesday, February 9th.
Calm weather, constant thick fiery haze, very close and sultry. By 3
P.M. secured everything for sea intending to sail in the morning,
took a haul of our seine, caught one whiting only and two remarkable
curious fish."
"Wednesday, February 10th.
P.M. Sighted our Bower anchor suspecting it to be foul, found it so.
Having found a quantity of oysters, mussels and shellfish at low water
to-day gave the shore a strict search at low water and plainly perceived
that a company of 6 or 8 men would not run any hazard of being starved
here for several months from the vast quantity of shellfish to be found.
We also have these some days past found feeding on seaweed many hundreds
of a very handsome shell very scarce where we were in April last."
"Thursday, February 11th.
This evening a snake 6 feet long was killed in the road to the well."
"Friday, February 12th.
A.M. Hoisted in launch, took up kedge intending to sail if wind came
to anything, it however kept constantly falling calm and then a light
air would spring up for a few minutes; this kind of weather obliged me
to keep fast. At noon heard distant thunder around us." |
13 Feb 1802
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"Saturday, February 13th.
From 7 PM till 10 PM constant loud thunder, vivid lightning and very
hard rain later part, till 9 A.M. was calm then. A breeze sprung
up at E. Hove up our B.1 and hung by the kedge, by this time it fell
calm and our hopes of getting to sea vanished, needless to observe
this kind of weather is as destructive to the intent of this cruise
as gales at sea. I took a walk along the beach far enough to see
all the entrances to this port and by ascending an eminence was confirmed
in my opinion that several of those dangerous sand rollers had shifted
their berths and by so doing had rendered the channel narrower than
hithertofore."
"Sunday, February 14th.
At 7 P.M. a breeze sprung up E. S.E. with drizzling rain; it continued
all night, and at 4 A.M. (Monday 15th) we took up Kedge in gig, loosed
sails, and hove short. At 5 A.M. weighed and made all sail down the port.
By 8 A.M. Grant 's Point bore E. by N. distant 10 miles and Cape Shanks
N.W. distant 7 miles; kept running down the land. A.M. At half-past 10
South Head of the new Harbour or Port N. by E. 8 miles distant; by noon
the island at entrance of harbour bore N. half a mile distant. At this
time we had a view of this part of the spacious harbour, its entrance
is wide enough to work any vessel in, but, in 10 fathoms. Bar stretches
itself a good way across, and, with a strong tide out and wind in, the
ripple is such as to cause a stranger to suspect rock or shoals ahead.
We carried in with us water from 14 to 16 fathoms. Kept standing up the
port with all sail set." |
15 Feb 1802
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"Monday, February 15th.
Fresh winds from S.E. to South, and hazy Weather throughout. Working
up, the port with a very strong ebb against us we however gained
ground. The southern shore of this noble harbour is bold high land
in general and not clothed as all the land at Western Point is with
thick brush but with stout trees of various kinds and in some places
falls nothing short, in beauty and appearance, of Greenwich Park
. Away to the eastward at the distance of 20 miles the land is mountainous,
in particular there is one very high mountain which in the meantime
I named Arthur's Seat from its resemblance to a mountain of that
name a few miles from Edinburgh . To the N. E. by N., about 5 miles
from the south shore lies a cluster of small Rocky Islands , and
all round them a shoal of sand. Plenty of swans and pelicans were
found on them when the boat was down, from which I named them Swan
Isles. To the N.E. by E. there is an opening, and from our masthead
no land could be seen in it. The northern shores are low with a sandy
beach all along. At half-past 3 P.M. we got to anchor in a Sandy
Cove in 7 fathoms water, bottom fine sand – Swan Isles bearing N.E.
by N. distance 5 miles. A bold rocky point which I named Point Paterson
E.S.E. 1½ mile; a long sandy point named Point Palmer, west
1½ miles; and the nearest point of the shore S.W. quarter
of a mile distant."
"Handed sails &c, out boats and I went on shore and walked through the
woods a couple of miles. The ground was hard and pleasant to walk on, the trees
are at a good distance from each other and no brush intercepts you; the soil
is good as far as we may be judges. I saw several native huts and very lately
they have burnt off several hundred acres of ground. Young grass we found springing
up over all the ground we walked; the only birds we saw were a few parrots; we
found some shells on the beach and returned on board. I have named this harbour
Port King(2) in honour of Governor, P. G. King under whose orders I act. Set
a third watch of the people with an officer. In the morning sent the gig to Swan
Isles for swans and on board we caught a few Rock fish. At noon the gig returned
with 3 live and 4 dead swans." |
16 Feb 1802
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"Tuesday, February 16th.
After dinner I took a walk through the woods of this part of the country,
attended by one soldier and our carpenter to examine the wood. To
describe this part I walked through is simply to say that it nearly
resembles a walk on Blackheath and the Park if we set out of question
the houses and gardens of the latter. The hills and valleys rise
and fall with inexpressible elegance. We discovered no water nor
any new wood of consequence, but it is impossible that a great want
of water can be here from the number of native huts and fires we
fell in with in our march. From the top of a high hill I ascended
and casting my eyes to the N.E. a large sheet of water was seen which
I am inclined to think is either a harbour or large river; we also
perceived that this port trained away under Cape Shanks."
"On our return to the boat Andrew Luck found a perfect nautilus shell; he
made me a present of it, indeed it is but common justice to observe that the
invariable good, attentive and decent behaviour of this old man ever since he
joined this vessel renders him a fit object of mercy. This day a few snappers
were caught and some rock fish. At sundown a native fire was seen about a mile
inland, in the morning early I sent Mr Bowen and Bond armed to speak them, neither
fell in with them. At 9 A.M. hove up our Bower with a light air at N.E. and dropped
a few miles further up the Port. We now saw the same fire just lighted by the
natives and presently perceived several of them come out of the Bush, but the
moment they saw the vessel they sprang into the wood out of sight. At 11 A.M.
we came to an anchor in 5 fathoms water, handed sails, etc., as there was a native
fire burning a little way inland."
"I sent the launch with Mr Bowen and 4 hands armed to see if any natives
were here, and before the boat was half-way on shore we had the satisfaction
of seeing 18 or 20 men and boys come out of the wood and seat themselves down
on a green bank waiting the approach of our boat with which I had sent some shirts
and other trifles to give them; the boat accordingly landed in the midst of them
and a friendly intercourse took place with dancing on both sides - in an hour
the boat returned. Mr Bowen had dressed them in our white shirts and invited
them on board, this however they declined, but exchanged for all this. Got a
basket of straw neatly enough made. They were all clothed in the skins of opossums
and each had a bundle of spears, a stone mogo and one basket. They wished much
to know what our arms were and their use and did not seem entirely to believe
Mr Bowen that they were only walking sticks - no women were amongst them. I sent
the boat again with some bread, looking-glasses, tomahawk and a picture as presents
to induce them to part with their weapons and dresses as also to inform us where
there was water. This day all hands put upon two-thirds allowance of bread." |
17 feb 1802
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"Wednesday, February 17th.
Fresh light airs inclinable to calm throughout this 24 hours. The boat
(as mentioned in latter part of yesterday's log) proceeded to the
shore and was as before received in a friendly manner by the natives,
all of whom were seated in a circle on a beautiful spot of grass
near a high point of land. Mr Bowen and all the crew consisting of
5 men and the boy, Mr Brabyn, went up with their dinners in their
hands and sat down in the midst of them (18 in number) and began
to eat showing the natives how to eat bread, etc., and gave them
anything they chose to ask for. Mr Bowen gave them all the things
I had sent as well as several of his own things - stripping himself
almost naked to comply with their wishes, and his example was followed
by the whole of the boat's crew. As there was two fine-looking boys
amongst them I sent Mr Brabyn on shore purposely to see and gain
their confidence by his attention to their youngsters, both of whom
he dressed in his shirts, handkerchiefs, trowsers, etc."
"All matters continued in this state while our people had anything to give
and all we got was a spears, a basket and a mogo and even these they again took
from the seamen that had them in keeping, this however the officer took no offence
at being determined if at all possible to keep on friendly terms with them. It
was in vain that the officer and crew tryed by signs too significant not to be
understood to gain intelligence where water was to be found or on what beaches
shells were most plentiful, to all such enquiries they turned a deaf ear and
only seemed intent on getting what our people had even to the last shirt; by
this time our people had nearly finished their dinners and Isaac Moss having
the boat in charge got up and was walking slowly down to her. At this time the
Boy Brabyn happened to turn his head towards the wood and saw a man in the very
act of throwing a spear at Moss as well as a large body (not before seen) behind
a large fallen tree with their spears all in readiness for throwing. The boy
immediately cried out to Mr Bowen who was at that very time in the act of serving
out bread to all the party he was sitting among that he would be speared, but
before the words were out of his mouth, a spear of a most dangerous kind, was
thrown at and did not escape Moss by a yard and in an instant the whole of the
treacherous body that Mr Bowen and 4 of our people were sitting in the midst
of opened out to the right and left and at once left them all open to the party
in ambush who immediately were on their feet and began to throw spears; still
such was the forbearance of the officer that only one piece was fired over their
beads but this was found only to create a small panic, and our party were obliged
to teach them by fatal experience the effect of our walking sticks."
"The first fire made them run and one received two balls between his shoulders,
still some of them made a stop to heave; the second fire they all set off with
astonishing speed and most likely one received a mortal wound. Before another
piece was fired Mr Bowen laid hold of one of their number and held on till three
of our people came up and also grappled him, strange to tell he made such violent
struggles as to get away from them all nor did the contents of the officer's
piece bring him up although one ball passed through his arm and the other in
the side - he was traced a good distance by his blood - the remaining pieces
were by this time fired and our party gave chase to them all."
"On board I kept a strict look-out with the glass and we lay only a little
more than a quarter of a mile off the point where they were seated on. I plainly
saw the natives running through the wood which was by no means thick - one fellow
in particular had been dressed in one of my white shirts and the officer had
tyed the wrists of it with string, which hindered his getting it off - him we
plainly saw from the vessel pass the roots of black trees with such speed as
more to resemble a large white bird flying than a man. To increase their panic
as they passed along I gave them a discharge of our guns loaded with round and
grape but am almost certain that they did them no damage; by this time our people
returned from the chase, having found on the way back a number of spears, dresses
and baskets, etc. Made the boat signal and they came off."
"Thus did this treachery and unprovoked attack meet with its just punishment
and at the same time taught us a useful lesson to be more cautious in future.
With respect to the size of these natives they are much the same as at Sydney
, their understanding better though, for they easily made out our signs when
it answered their purposes or inclination. When it did not they could be dull
enough. They were all clothed in opossum skins and in each basket a certain quantity
of gum was found. Not the least sign of a canoe has been seen. I conclude they
live entirely inland, and if we may judge from the number of their fires and
other marks this part of the country is not thin of inhabitants. Their spears
are of various kinds and all of them more dangerous than any I have yet seen.
The workmanship of their dresses, their lines and baskets are far from despicable,
their mogo or stone axes are such as common at Sydney ."
"In the afternoon the boat went to Swan Isles and caught three live swans
of a large size, and in the morning the launch went with Mr Power and a party
well armed to sound for a channel round which the vessel might sail in order
to survey the port. Usefully employed on board. Lat. 38º 20' S." |
18 Feb 1802
Top |
"Thursday, February 18th.
Pleasant weather throughout. The launch returned having been fortunate
enough to discover fresh water and a channel all round this part
of the Port from 10 to 14 fathoms. I took a long range through the
woods attended with an armed party. We discovered nothing new but
found several of the things we gave the natives which in their fright
they had dropped. The ground we walked over was open and the same
as before described, with good soil. The tide where we lie flows
full and changes at 3 hours in the afternoon, and its perpendicular
rise is about 6 feet up and down."
"Friday, February 19th.
Calm, Do Weather. This day another overhaul of the woods took place but
nothing (not before mentioned) was found. Numbers of native tracks, fires
and huts were seen. As usual sent the launch to Swan isles, and she got
three live ones. Observed that to-day the surf on the sea shore broke
with great noise, and also for the first time observed a Sand Roller
bearing N.E. by E. of us, and distant three miles; and from the mast
head to W. N. W. at eight or nine miles distance, several breakers where
seen. Employed as necessary scoured decks and cleaned below. Ends in
Hot Sultry Weather, but clear. One native fire in sight on Arthur's Seat
distant about 10 miles."
"Saturday, February 20th.
Light airs inclined to be calm, and fine weather throughout. Variously
employed. Sent an armed party and our carpenter a long range through
the woods to try the different kinds of wood. None however was found
of use, the trees being almost invariably oak and other wood quite common
at Sydney . A red waistcoat of Mr Brabyn's was found with some bread
in each pocket, in this he had dressed one of the native boys, who in
his fear left it I fancy, as soon as he had found how to get it off,
for it was buttoned on him. A.M. sent the launch for Swans. I have observed
that breakers mentioned in Yesterdays Log disappeared in the afternoon,
as also the roaring of the outside surf took off about midnight , and
this morning about 9 A.M. we were visited by the tale of a Smoaky S.
W. gale. Which, however, by noon came to nothing. Querey, if there has
not a Gale from the S.W. been blowing a little distance off - ends fine
weather."
"Sunday, February 21st.
S. W. Winds and Mid good Weather throughout. P.M. the launch returned
on board with five swans. PM Punished Thos. Smith with two dozen lashes
for being drunk thirty six hours on a stretch and behaving insolence
to both officers. Bond, the soldier, also had a quart and half pint of
Spirits stole from him. A.M. Finding we could not move higher up the
port with the vessel I sent the launch over the western side to examine
the passage into a harbour or river I saw from the hill on 16th inst.
Usefully employed. Sent Boat to fish. Ends in Fresh Breezes at S.W. and
Clear Weather." |
22 Feb 1802
Top |
"Monday, February 22nd.
Gloomy weather and Fresh winds at S.W. throughout. The small boat caught
a few Rock Fish and returned on board. At noon the launch returned,
having found an entrance into the sheet of water they were sent to
overhaul, but only at high water, 7 or 8 feet of it, consequently
no harbour for shipping. The boat proceeded a mile and a half, and,
in running that, caught 10 swans of a large size without wasting
one charge of shot, which bye-the-bye is now become a scarce article,
not above 3 or 4 lbs. being in the vessel; however from the report
made of this place it may lead to something of more consequence.
I shall after the survey of the Port is completed give it a good
overhaul. I must mention here that both our boats are now in such
a state of decay from age and constant mending and patching that
they both keep a hand constantly bailing when pulling or sailing,
this circumstance it is needless to mention in a certain degree retards
our proceedings."
"Tuesday, February 23rd.
Gloomy Weather and moderate Winds at S.W. P.M. I went in the launch and
sounded a few miles of the Port up towards the watering place. The soundings
were 9 feet to 6 fathoms, bottom fine sand, further out perhaps a deeper
channel may exist (this will be ascertained in the survey). Afterwards
we walked through the country some distance, found the soi1 invariably
good, the ground almost clear and the ranges of trees as regular as they
are in general in Parks, with fine strong short grass under foot. Employed
as necessary. Ends in light airs and close hazy weather."
"Wednesday, February 24th.
First part of these 24 hours had a great deal of thunder and lightning
and rain, middle and latter parts it blew a hard gale at S.W. with squalls
at intervals. We held on although all ataunto with the small bower and
one - third of a cable out, a proof of the goodness of the holding ground.
Employed as necessary. Cut a boat load of wood. Expended two decayed
scrubbing brushes and one Rudder Iron broke in launch."
"Thursday, February 25th.
First part the gale continued. Mid and latter fresh winds at S.E. and
clear. Occasionally employed. Observed several very large native fires
at the foot of Arthur's Seat and on the western side of the port, hauled
our seine several times along the shore nearest us but caught no fish
owing probably to there being flats of sand lying off them to the distance
of 200 yards. The freshness of the wind hindered our getting a Base Line
by two latitudes to-day. Got distance of the sun and moon nearest limbs.
Ends in fresh winds at S.E. and clear." |
26 Feb 1802
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"Friday, February 26th.
Examined the beach and land for about 8 miles. A.M. Sent our long boat
on shore, turned her up and set our carpenter to work on her, she
leaking so much as to keep a hand constantly bailing, and our small
boat is so bad as to render it hazardous to go any distance from
the vessel in her."
"Saturday, February 27th.
Fine weather and moderate winds. Both boats sounding and on survey of
harbour. A number of very large native fires on the hills round the eastern
and western shores of the Port have been seen these two days past. Sent
Mr Bowen and Mr Brabyn in the gig to get the Latitude of the north end
of Swan Isles and at noon I got the Latitude of a point about 7 miles
North and South of them from which a base line was got for the survey
of the harbour."
"Sunday, February 28th.
Do Winds and weather. Employed as needful. Gave some of the people liberty
on shore." |
1 Mar 1802
Top |
"Monday, March 1st.
Fine weather and moderate winds. Occasionally employed. At 5 A.M. took
up our kedge, hove short, loosed sails and sheeted home the top-sails,
weighed and made sail up the port. intending to run as high as the
watering place. The wind in a little time flied away and the tide
ran so rapid as to sweep the vessel on a shoal of sand with only
5 feet of water on it, as it was perfectly smooth we immediately
hove her off without her sustaining the least damage and dropped
back into our old berth between Point Paterson and Bowen's Point
so named from Mr Bowen's skirmish with the natives in it. The flies
are now so troublesome as to almost hinder a person from sitting
a moment in one place."
"Tuesday, March 2nd.
Calm pleasant weather throughout. Employed getting on board stones for
ballast and stowing them away. At 4 A.M. sent the longboat for a turn
of water and to sound that part of the harbour between the vessel and
it; by noon she returned on board with a turn of water, it was found
that a bank of sand lay from shore to the distance of a mile or a mile
and a quarter with only, 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 feet on it at low water and
it extends nearly 4 miles along shore. When you have passed this there
is from 5 to 9 fathoms water abreast of the watering place, there is
however little doubt of a deep channel being outside of this shoal, and
this point will be ascertained in the course of to-morrow."
"Thursday, March 4th. P.M.
. Gloomy weather and moderate winds throughout. Employed as necessary.
P.M. The launch returned on board with a turn of water but had not been
able to find a channel for vessel of any draught of water though she
stood well out from the shore to at best three miles. This bank has only
from four to eight feet water on it and in many places is not above a
hundred yards broad. Then immediately you fall into seven, eight and
nine fathoms and carry such water up abreast of the Watering place; it
is very probable that at a good distance from the shore there exists
a Channel of deep water round the edge of this sand bank and this point
shall not be left undetermined. A. M. again sent the long boat for water
and to sound. Ends in gloomy weather and drizzling rain." |
5 Mar 1802
Top |
"Friday, March 5th.
First and Mid parts hazy dull weather, and now and then drizling rain;
latterly the weather cleared up. P.M. the launch returned with a
load of water. Employed getting it on board and stowing it away.
A. M. I went in the launch in search of a channel by which vessels
of a larger draught than ours might be got up abreast of the watering
place and was fortunate enough to find one a mile at least in breadth
lying off the southern shores of this Port about three or three and
a half miles and having from ten to sixteen fathoms water in at low
water and neap tides; and in this water a vessel of any draught may
be secure from all winds. At about a mile and a half from the spring
at which to-day I loaded the boat with water and examined it. As
far as we are judges it is most excellent water as clear as cristal
lies from the beach about ten or a dozen yards and plenty of it to
water the Grand Fleet of England; it is nearer the entrance than
the foot of Arthur's Seat by about two miles, and can easily be found
out by the land which for a few miles before you come to it is low,
whereas all the other land on both sides is high with bold points;
if a boat then East or E. by S. from Point Paterson 9 miles puts
into the shore they will not be far off it. There is plenty of ducks
about it, but so shy that only two have been shot, a circumstance
we did not a little regret as they exceed in flavour any I ever eat.
We are now complete in water and will soon be wooded. In the morning,
weather in the way. I intend going over the sheet of water mentioned
in the Log on Monday, the 22nd February, in order to see what it
contains." |
6 Mar 1802
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"Saturday, March 6th.
Fine weather throughout. Wind variable to S.W. Employed on board fitting
new waist-cloths, the others being decayed and her sides and bends
being very bare I gave them a coat of red (the only colour we had
on board) and blacked the bends and upper works. A.M. I went in the
launch over to the sheet of water' (as I intended) with an armed
boat's crew and by noon got to its entrance. This day has been so
clear that we are able to see the land all round the Port and in
many places very high headlands. In those low places, where we could
not be certain of the land by the eye there were numerous native
fires and some of them very large."
"Sunday, March 7th.
Fine weather throughout. Winds from S.W. to N.W. to N.E.. Employed as
necessary. By one P.M. I got into the sheet of water and by pulling all
round it found it to be very extensive but, in few places more than six
feet water and the greatest part of it so shoal as to ground the boat;
in the entrance at one place there is a small channel of about 50 or
60 feet in breadth with nine feet to 2½ fathoms water in, but
of no use as it shoals to a couple of feet before you get in the soil
of the land. All round the extensive place is good and its appearance
exceeds in beauty even the southern shores. The number of large swans
seen almost exceeds belief, but by this time most of them could fly,
we caught eleven – ten of which were large. All of us slept this night
on a pleasant little island with a few handsome trees on it, soil good
and so clear as to be fit for the hoe at once. I named it Maria Isle
after a sister I lost some years past. A.M. we had another chase after
swans, and returned on board. Ends in pleasant fine weather." |
8 Mar 1802
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"Monday, March 8th.
First and Mid parts stiff gale at S. W., latter more moderate with clear
weather. Necessarily employed as we now intended sailing in a few
days. I judged it consistent with His Majesty's instructions (a copy
of which I was furnished with from the Governor and Commander-in-Chief
of New South Wales) to take possession of this port in the form and
manner laid down by the said instructions, and accordingly at 8 o'clock
in the morning the United Colours of the Kingdoms of Great Britain
and Ireland were hoisted on board and on Point Paterson, and at one
o'clock under a discharge of 3 volleys of small arms and artillery
the Port was taken possession of in the name of his Sacred Majesty
George the Third of Great Britain and Ireland, King, etc., etc. Served
double allowance of grog. In the afternoon I went on shore attended
with an armed party and passed the remainder of the day about and
under the colours flying on shore, at sundown hauled down the colours
on board and ashore." |
9 Mar 1802
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"Tuesday, March 9th.
Hazy weather and moderate winds at S. W. throughout. Employed getting
ready for sea. Overhauled our keels fore and aft, cleaned them. We
have now expended 19 weeks and one day's provisions out of 24 weeks.
We were victualled for commencing on 27th October 1801 and owing
to the quantity of bread decayed, along with what the swans and other
birds have eaten, we are rather short, even what we have left is
very bad, therefore it will not be in my power at this time to prosecute
the object of our cruise much further. It is in vain I regret so
little being done in such a length of time, the weather and other
circumstances have been rather against us the whole cruise, however
the little that is performed of the original instructions is pretty
accurate and I trust will give the Commander-in-Chief some satisfaction."
"Wednesday, March 10th.
. Fresh winds from S. W. to S. E. and hazy cold weather throughout. Occasionally
employed making ready for sea. Sent party to overhaul the beach and woods.
P.M. got the distance of sun and moon nearest limbs. For these last two
or three days great numbers of native fires have been seen all round
the Port except between Arthur's Seat and Point Palmer. Draft of water
aft 5 feet 9 inches, - Forward 4 feet 10 inches."
"Thursday, March 11th.
First and Mid parts moderate winds at S.E. with hazy weather, latterly
a light breeze at N.E. and from that to E.S.E. Employed securing everything
for sea. At 4 am hoisted in the launch after picking up our Kedge, sent
top gallant yards aloft, hove short and loos'd sails. At 7 weighed and
made sail down the port by 8 A.M. with a strong tide of ebb running out
we got into the entrance carrying all the way from 9 to 16 fathoms water,
we then fell into such a ripple that we expected every minute it would
break on board, having now from 10 to 7 and 8 fathoms water, we however
got clear and by half-past nine am. the point of entrance bore N.E. by
E. 3 or 4 miles and a remarkably high nob of land (if not an island)
.N.W. 4 or 5 miles. By noon the entrance N.E. by N. 9 or 10 miles. As
at the last change the tide flowed at half past 1 pm . And on the full
at 3 hours it is probable that the Long Shoals that lye from the shore
cause this difference, the Longitude is nearly 145º 00' 00" East.
This is by two Lunars and its corresponding situation to Elizabeth Cove,
but there may be an error of 10 or 15 miles in the calculation. Latitude
observed 38º 26' 00"." |
24 Mar 1802
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"Wednesday, March 24th.
Fine weather though inclined to calm. At half-past 3 P.M. South Head
bore S.S.W. the North distant 4 or 5 miles. At 4 P.M. passed Bradley's
Head, at 6 passed Garden Island and by half-past 6 P.M. came to an
anchor in Sydney Cove with the best bower, moored with the kedge.
The Commander waited on His Excellency the Governor and Commander-in-Chief." |
Notes
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Notes
1. The time in the logs throughout is according to nautical reckoning,
i.e. the day beginning at noon .
2. Governor King afterwards renamed the harbour Port Phillip in honour
of the first Governor of New South Wales. |